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8 page supplement to WoodenBoat magazine issue #229, Nov/Dec 2012.
Varnishing Basics.You'll notice a mention on the last page of some bonus content on our WoodenBoat.com site... Maynard Bray's method of cleaning brushes. Here's that info:
Over many years, I've kept my varnish brushes submerged in raw linseed oil-a method I learned about from my friend Bill Welte. It goes like this:
Storage is in the smallest can that the brush will fit into. For a 1 1/2" brush, a B&M baked bean can is just right. The oil level has to be kept above the bristles always, and this means an occasional topping off. A baggie slipped over the top keeps out the dust. Be sure to use raw, not boiled, oil, as the latter will skin over and contaminate the brush.
A turpentine flush has to take place whenever the brush gets used, and again before it's put back in the oil. Other solvents may work, but for me genuine turpentine has proven itself. Use a fresh batch of it (I pour an Ocean Spray cranberry sauce can about 1/3 full) for each varnishing session, and be sure to scrape out the excess oil on the side of the keeper can before dipping the brush into the turpentine; then "sling" out the turpentine before loading up with varnish. Reverse this flushing process after you're done varnishing:
If your varnish brush is the usual short-bristle badger-hair type, it is sufficiently stiff to stand on end in the oil without any other support. It just leans against the side of the baked bean can and almost floats there without bending over the brush's working end.
For fun, I date the baggies; I'm still using the brush (and baggie) from 2002. A decade with the same brush, preserved this way in raw linseed oil, isn't bad going-and it's a much faster method than drying out your brush each time you use it. I think I may have changed my keeper oil three or four times during this ten-year period.
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